There's something wonderful about a home full of flowering plants. But as anybody who has spent time around houseplants knows, there's often a huge learning curve between keeping a plant alive and getting it to flower. So in some ways, this list of the best flowering houseplants represents a master class in green-thumbery.

But don't despair. The plants on this list are usually already flowering by the time they're offered for sale, and in some cases, they aren't really meant to be flowered by home gardeners. This is especially true of the holiday plants (I'm thinking about you, poinsettias). Other plants on this list are easier to flower at home, and once you get the basics, you can expect regular blooms.

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African violets are one of the world's most popular houseplants, and for good reason. These compact, low-growing plants flower several times a year, and they are available in a multitude of leaf forms and colors. Don't be put off by their reputation for difficulty: providing you follow a few simple rules, African violets should thrive indoors. With a little experience, it's possible to keep them in flower nearly all year round and grow them to the size of dinner plates.
Growing Conditions:
Light: Bright, but not direct sunlight. They are commonly grown under fluorescent lights placed 12 to 15 inches above the leaves.
Water: Keep soil moist with warm water and strive for high humidity. Do not allow water to contact the leaves to prevent damage, other than light misting. Water from below, or push the water spout into the soil when watering. Don't allow the plant to sit in water.
Temperature: Do not allow to fall below about 60ºF. They thrive at 70ºF.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential.
Fertilizer: Feed with a African violet fertilizer every other week.
Propagation:
African violets can be propagated from leaf cuttings or from offsets. Adult plants occasionally produce small plantlets or shoots from the side. Remove these and pot up independently. Removing them also encourages better blooms on the parent plant.

To grow an orchid, you have to think like an orchid.

The golden rule for orchid success is to duplicate the plant's natural conditions as closely as possible. In nature, most orchids are epiphytes, meaning they grow on other objects, clinging to rough bark or even stone. The showy orchids favored by most people are usually either phalaenopsis hybrids (so-called moth orchids) or dendrobium hybrids.

These plants thrive in these conditions:
Strong light, but not direct late-afternoon sunlight (although dendrobiums can handle more sun)
High humidity
Turbulent air flow around the roots
Regular periods of drying, alternating with drenching rains
Temperatures between 50 degrees and about 85 degrees

The closer you can come to creating these conditions in your growing area, the more success and better blooms you will have.

Most store-bought orchids come packaged in cheap plastic pots with the roots packed in soaked moss. Obviously, this violates two of the main rules of successful growth. There is no air flow around the roots, and the roots are never given a chance to completely dry out. Thus, the plant cannot breathe and root rot is inevitable. Orchid roots are highly specialized organs designed to soak up water very quickly and breathe. They do not extract nutrients from soil.
Repotting for Success

The first step with any store-bought orchid is to enjoy the bloom. Don't attempt to repot a flowering plant.

After the bloom is done, go ahead and cut off the dead flower spike with sterile snippers and repot the plant. Orchids should be potted into specialized orchid pots in orchid mixture. Orchid pots feature wide drainage slits so water will literally run through the pot. They are widely available. Orchid potting mixture is usually composed of several chunky ingredients, including pine bark, charcoal, and even styrofoam.

To repot your orchid, follow these steps:
Remove it from the plastic pot and carefully remove as much of the moss as you can. Healthy roots should be white and firm, with a small green growing point.
Cut away any shriveled, rotten or blackened roots.
Set the plant into the pot and fill in around it with potting mixture. The plant should be firmly situated, but it will not be completely anchored. Eventually, new roots will grow through the potting mixture and attach to the pot itself, thus anchoring your plant.

Once it's repotted, find a good spot. An east facing window with a few hours of mild morning sun is perfect. To provide the necessary humidity and catch run-off water, put the plant into a wide, deep tray and fill the tray with gravel.
Tips for Care

Caring for your orchid is pretty simple. During the summer months, water it weekly and heavily. Let the water drench the roots and fill up the pebble tray (this will provide extra humidity). It doesn't hurt every so often to even put the plant in the kitchen sink and really soak it down. Don't worry, you won't kill it as long as it's allowed to dry out afterward. During the growing season, feed it weekly with a weak solution of a powder or liquid fertilizer. Many growers use Peter’s 20/20/20 fertilizer at quarter strength.

In the winter, keep your plant warm and cut the water back to once a month or so. Mist it every so often to make sure it stays hydrated. Don't fertilize it.

If you see signs of distress, such as yellowing leaves, wrinkled leaves or no blooms, move the plant and keep tweaking your conditions. Once an orchid finds a happy spot, and falls into a routine, the plant should regularly throw out new roots and leaves or canes (depending on the type) and reward you yearly with a beautiful bloom.

The genus Kalanchoe includes more than 100 plants, but only a few are regularly seen in cultivation. Kalanchoes are native to arid areas, and they are popular succulents. Modern hybrids are valued for their interesting leaf-forms or, especially for their flowers. Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions:
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF.
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.

Tropical hibiscus flowers are one of the enduring symbols of the tropics. These much-beloved, large and showy flowers can be grown inside in temperate zones, but it's not an easy task. The trick with success is twofold: managing the deadly winter, and fending off hungry insects. If you can fall into a rhythm, it's possible to keep a hibiscus plant thriving for a decade or more, with blooms in the summer. Remember, though, that the blooms will likely never be as large as those in South Florida, California or Hawaii, where hibiscus blooms can be as large as dinner plates.
Growing Conditions:
Light: Place outside in the summer, gradually acclimating to more light. In the winter, give as much direct light as possible.
Water: Water freely in the summer, but excellent drainage is a must. Never let the mix become soggy. In the winter, let dry almost completely before watering again.
Temperature: Even a few nights below 50ºF will kill a hibiscus. Move them inside when the temperature is consistently 55ºF. They prefer between 55ºF and 70ºF.
Soil: Use a well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in the early summer with a slow-release fertilizer or weekly with a liquid, blooming fertilizer.
Propagation:
Hibiscus can be propagated with soft-stem cuttings in late spring, when the plant begins to grow again. Use rooting hormone and shelter the cutting from direct sun until it begins to grow.
Repotting:
Repot as necessary, yearly or biannually. Hibiscus will grow into trees in their native habitats, but this may be unwieldy in a home setting. There's also some benefit to keeping the hibiscus in a relatively smaller pot, as it will make for easier pruning and moving.
Hibiscus Varieties:
There are literally dozens of hibiscus varieties introduced every year. They flower in red, pink, orange, yellow, and white. There are single and double versions available. Choose freely among the hybrids.
Grower's Tips:
Hibiscus should be moved outside in the summer, then back inside during the winter. Tips for a successful transition include: Trim the plant hard before moving it inside for the winter. It will go into near dormancy until late winter.
After you trim it, but before you bring it in, treat it thoroughly for insects. Neem oil and liquid detergent work well, or use a hose to blast off insects.
Once inside, don't overwater, but provide as much humidity as possible, including daily mistings. Don't expose to blowing air from vents.
When the weather warms to above 50ºF at night, move it back outside and acclimate slowly..